The famous hiking trail

Abisko with kids

Our third day in Abisko was started late because we arrived from the Aurora chasing at around 10 pm the night before and everyone was feeling excited yet cold and tired, especially the youngest one. So we slowed down a bit and didn’t go out until after lunch. That day, it was still sunny and cold like the day before so we’re thinking of doing more indoor activities. We checked the surrounding areas and came up with some ideas that could work for the adults and the kids such as visiting Abisko Naturum and the Sami museum. To be able to do that, we need to go to the STF Abisko Turiststation first, which is located around 2 kms from Abisko Guesthouse. It’s actually walking distance but Klas was really kind he drove us there and even suggested us to go to the canyon (which we didn’t look up before) and this was the highlight of the day.

Abisko Short Walks

STF Abisko Turiststation is located near the start of Kungsleden, the longest and most famous hiking trail in Sweden that runs for about 440 kilometres (270 mi) between Abisko in the north and Hemavan in the south. This trail has many sections and they are all well marked. We didn’t do the long hike of course but we managed to have a short walk to the canyon and the view was already breathtaking.

To do this short walk, you need to follow the yellow marked trail. Start from the “entrance” with a sign of Abisko Kunglesden, and in a few minutes you will pass by a small cottage and a museum, continue to the west, pass by a tunnel then you will reach AbiskojÃ¥kka and the canyon which are indeed beautiful. During winter, the canyon is covered by snow and the river is half frozen so it’s quite a view.

Then, follow the canyon along a wooden pathway for about 300 metres where you will find a lookout. When the wooden pathway stops, you can continue on a small and rocky path. Not far from there, there is a bridge over the canyon which is a good spot for photo. You can either go back to the path where you came or continue on a gravel road leading to STF Abisko Turiststation and Torneträsk lake. Some pathways are bit slippery on winter so make sure to be extra careful especially when you’re carrying a baby like me 😀 . I slipped over on icy surface twice but luckily both me and my baby were fine.

Bofere we left the guesthouse, Klas offered us to use a sledge for our baby. This turned out to be a good idea to enjoy short walks with young kids. That way they will have more fun than just being carried along. However, you need relatively flat and not too rocky surface to do that. In our case, because my second daughter was sleeping half of the walk, I carried her all way long. She woke up right after we crossed the bridge over the canyon so we decided to put her in the sledge. She was reluctant at first but then seemed to enjoy the ride.

Unfortunately, as the day was getting darker, and we had been outside for hours, my baby started to feel cold and cried, so I got to carry her again on half of our way back to the guesthouse 😀 . So, if you’re thinking of taking your young ones into a winter adventure in Abisko, I would recommend these things:

  1. Prepare proper winter gear for your kids, including gloves and shoes, and remember the 3 layers clothing recommendation. In our experience, it is the cold from the feet and the hands that bother her the most. I thought her shoes was warm enough but apparently they were not so my baby was still feeling cold especially after more than an hour outside.
  2. The kids need to move around to keep their body warm. Being carried means they’re passive so it’s quicker for them to feel cold.
  3. Don’t spend too much time outside if the temperature is colder than -10. I think one hour is the maximum time for kid under 2 years old.
  4. Prepare many distractions: toys, foods, songs, and anything that your kids usually love 🙂

Signing off from Abisko

The day when we had to leave Abisko came sooner than we wanted. We woke up with a heavy feeling, trying to enjoy every single moment that left. The night before we had decided that we’d go separately that day. Zaki would go back to the canyon to take some more pictures while me and the kids would visit Naturum again since the youngest traveler was sleeping when we first went there 😀

So after checking out, we stored our bags in the luggage room then Klas gave us a key to the communal room. That’s another good thing about Abisko Guesthouse. Even after checking out at 11am, if your train or chartered bus are late in the afternoon, you can still get access to the communal room where you can wait, use the toilet, take a shower or cook. And for the second time, Klas drove us to STF Abisko Turistsstation. He’s so helpful indeed. I read many exceptional reviews about him before and I had proved them to be true. Would definitely stay there again next time we’re in Abisko.

After Klas dropped us off, Zaki explored the canyon again while me and the kids went back to Naturum. Naturum Abisko is like a gallery where you can find nature guides, exhibitions, film and lecture hall, library and souvenir shop. It is located right next to STF Abisko Turistsstation and is quite nice for kids despite its small size.

We were actually thinking to try the chairlift and visit the Sami Museum that day, but dropped the ideas for some reasons. So at around 1 pm, we just met in STF Abisko Turistsstation restaurant and decided to have lunch there. The restaurant serves classic Swedish home cooking lunch buffet everyday that includes salad buffet, meal, drinks, bread and coffee and tea. The lunch menu for that day was Kålpudding and it was soooooo tasty. Kålpudding is basically a mix of cabbage and minced meat, served with boiled potatoes and brown sauce or sliced ​​butter, and lingonberries sauce. Zaki was surprised to know it as it was his first (and because the look of the food is not so tempting to be honest). I had it once before in the hospital after giving birth to baby K but of course comparing hospital food and restaurant food is not apple to apple 🙂 .

After lunch, we had a quick fika then went back to Abisko Guesthouse. We enjoyed our last stroll from STF Abisko Turistsstation by stopping as often as we could to enjoy the view along the way. The day was so good we didn’t want to leave. But it was what it was. And soon we had arrived at the guesthouse again. As our train was running late, we didn’t rush to take our bags. We went to the communal room first, rested for a while then just before sunset, we waved goodbye to Klas and his crews and walked to the train station, where our night train to Stockholm would be departed from.

When the train had arrived, and every member of the family had been inside our compartment, I looked out the window to see the sky above Abisko hills. It was clear. And so was my mind. Our 4 days and 3 nights in Abisko were not without drama. But I must admit they were one of the best experiences I ever had.

I, and we actually, left Abisko with a heavy heart, because the place is just so beautiful, peaceful and fulfilling at the same time. But, we’ve made a promise to be back. Now we can only hope that the universe will say “amen” to that 🙂. Hej sÃ¥ länge, Abisko!

7 responses

  1. Dirimu pake jasa tour guide, mbak? Or group tour? *Sorry, I didn’t really get who Klas is…. haha

    1. Klas itu owner penginapan yg kutinggali, hehe. Jadi di Abisko itu ada paket2 tour gt, klo ikut tour ya otomatis dpt tour guide. Kami ikut salah satu tour yg ditawarkan oleh tempatku nginep, group tour ber13 orang. Tournya macem2 sih, bisa dilihat di web Abisko Guesthouse. Ada link-nya di part 1 dan 2 😊

      1. Hehe..aku penasaran aja krn guide-ku dr group tour (termasuk agen perjalanan). Bukan dr penginapan. Kalo pesen dr Abisko Guesthouse-nya langsung sungguh mahal tak terkira 😭

      2. Ohhhh, kami jg cm ikut satu tour yg paling murah kok, hahahaha, cuma pas beruntung bgt dpt sledge ketutup, dpt aurora, dpt moose spotting, all in one. Sama agen perjalanan itu berarti termasuk transport gt?

      3. Iya..naik bus dari Stockholm kurleb 20 jam. Programnya Kiruna city tour, ke Ice Hotel, reindeer farm punya orang Sami. Utk extra activities aku gak ikut krn 1) bayar lagi, 2) emg ke situ niatnya liat aurora doang 🤣

      4. Wow ke Ice Hotel, mahal bgt kan itu masuknya, kami ga mampu 😅

      5. Tentu krn paket rombongan, buat kita sih murah. Kompensasinya ya itu…pantat kotak-kotak krn naik bus 20 jam. haha

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The author

Hayu Hamemayu is a word bender, whose work has appeared in The Conversation Indonesia, The Jakarta Post, Media Indonesia, Kompas, Majalah Kartini, Indonesia Travel Magazine, and The Newbie Guide to Sweden among others.